Essays

The Veneto: 101

We have been exploring the Tre Venezie on Wine Soaked starting with Trentino- Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Guilia, and today we are going to explore the most well know of this trio of wine regions that surround the city of Venice, that is The Veneto. Some people love this region’s wine for its complexity and some people see it as one of Italy’s major bulk wine producers, and both of these sentiments are on the mark. We will see why as we explore the history, geography, grapes, wine-making techniques and wine regions of this very multi-faceted area.

The History of Wine Production in The Veneto

The Veneto, and Venice for that matter, take their name from a tribe that settled in the area around 1000 BC. It was one of the leading trading ports and commercial empires in Medieval times, and it was the link between the Byzantine Empire and the Northern country of Europe. Wine was a major trading commodity, and this laid the groundwork for the Veneto to be a great wine growing region, with many influences of grape and vinicultural style from around the world.

It has had many high points and low points as far as quality goes through the ages, but one thing that has always been true of the Veneto is that it is capable of producing A LOT of wine. In fact, this was particularly exploited in the 1960s and 1970s when the main goal was to make as much “ok” wine as possible. This is the point when Valpolicella, Soave, and even Prosseco stopped being looked at as quality wines worth study and reverence, and instead became that passable wine on supermarket shelves for under ten dollars. That is not to say that there are not amazing producers of all of these wines, it is just to say that those producers are not the ones responsible for the Veneto producing the most wine in all of Northern Italy. One wine, however, that has always demanded respect from the region is Amarone, which we will talk about a bit later. There is has lately been a resurgence of lower yields and more quality as the demand for high-quality mid-priced wine has been rising on the international market.

The Geography of it All

On the most basic level, The Veneto is in Northeastern Italy (The bottom of the ruffle on the garter). The vast fertile alluvial plains of the Veneto (capable of producing a sea of bulk wine) stretch from Venice and the Adriatic Coast to the foothills of the Alps, and the border of Trentino-Alto Adige. This is where the magic happens! In the foothills there is less fertile soil, which makes for much more complex wine.

The best growing area is on the hills, on well-drained volcanic soil sprinkled with sand, clay, and gravel. The climate in the North and West can be quite cool and mountainous, where the further south and the closer to the Adriatic Sea you get it becomes warmer and more Maritime. There is also Lake Garda, and the Adige and Po rivers, that have a moderating effect on certain sub-zones.

The Grapes of Note

Whites:

Garganega– Leading white grape. Probably of Greek origin, but it has been a key player in the Veneto since the Renaissance. It is the key grape in the Soave & Gambellara regions.
Pinot Grigio– This is the key volume player. It is also used as a blending grape in Prosecco. It is light and easy-going, but its quality here pales in comparison to the neighboring regions of Friuli-Venezia Giulia & Trentino-Alto Adage.
Trebbiano- Leading blending grape for Soave & Bianco di Custanza.
Prosecco aka Glera- Most likely native to Friuli-Venezia Giulia, but it is now almost exclusively grown in the Veneto as the leading grape in Prosecco Spumante, and Frizzante.
Tocai Friulano- Not as popular in the Veneto as in Friuli, but it is super unique and fun and does pop up in some high quality blends.
Vespaiola- This native grape is the base for some interesting dry whites and more notably some sweet wines.
Pinot Bianco- It is a minor grape as far as production goes, and is often used as a blending grape in Prosecco.
Chardonnay- It can make some easy access New World-style wines, but mostly it just falls into that “make a fast buck” wine-lake of the Veneto.

Reds:

Corvina- This is the superstar red grape of the region. It is the star player in the blends of Amerone, Valpolicella, & Bardolino.
Rodinella- This is the second most important red grape. It is the supporting player in Amerone, Valpolicella, & Bardolino.
Molinara- This is the third runner up as far as red grapes go in the Veneto. It also usually is blended into Amerone, Valpolicella, & Bardolino.
Negrara- This is a background or accent grape that is only sometimes blended in Amerone, Valpolicella, & Bardolino.
Raboso- An indigenous red grape that makes easy fruit-forward reds in the regions of Raboso del Piave & Raboso Veronese.
Wildbacher- This is a black grape mostly used as a blending grape. Also found in Western Styria in Austria.
Merlot- Mostly it just falls in to that “make a fast buck” wine-lake of the Veneto, although it can also be used in a few interesting blends.
Cabernet Sauvignon- Always falls into the “make a fast buck” wine-lake… and is usually thin and unremarkable.
Cabernet Franc- Mostly DOC wine worth searching out, often barrique-aged.

Most Famous Wine Styles & Wine Making Techniques:

Amarone- The name means “The bigger better one”. It is made in the Valpolicella region of the Veneto. It is even the same blend as Valpolicella — mostly Corvina with a backup blend of Rodinella, Molinara & Negrara. The major difference is that these grapes are left on the vine for a longer period of time to achieve extra ripeness. Next, whole bunches are harvested, and left to dry on bamboo shelving or mats in cool drying lofts for two to three months. This causes the grapes to shrivel, further concentrating their flavor and sugars. When the grapes are finally crushed and pressed it produces an intense full bodied wine that is usually 15-16% in Alcohol.
Prosecco- This is a Spumante wine (Sparkling Wine) made primarily from the Prosecco grape. Instead of employing the Traditional Method, this sparkler is made in the Charmat Method, which means that the second fermentation occurs in pressurized tanks, instead of in individual bottles. In Venice it is considered an ombrette, or pick-me-up!
Soave-Traditionally this white is a blend of Garganega & Trebbiano. It is best described as light, fresh, and smooth. Due to the cash-grab wine industry expansion in this region in the 1970s, you are often better off seeking out Soave Classico (which comes from the original foothills of the region), or better yet Soave Classico Superiore, which must be aged for Eight months before release. There is also a tiny amount made in the recioto method — this is the the drying method also employed in Amarone & recioto della Valpolicella. However, here the fermentation is halted before all of the sugar is converted to alcohol, leaving stunningly complex, sweet white wine.
Valpolicella – Like Amerone, Valpolicella is made from Corvina blended with Rondnella, Molinara, and a few other permitted surprises. After that, the similarity splits off. Valpolicella is now split into five distinct styles.

Basic– Lightweight grapey wine which is not usually aged and can come from anywhere in the Valpolicella region. (This is a product of that aforementioned 1970s greed rush.) I will not say that all of these are bad, but they’re not likely to be life-changing wines.
Valpolicella Classico- This refers to wines that come from the original Valpolicella zone pre-70s greed.
Valpolicella Superiore- This wine comes from the Classico zone and must be aged a year.
Valpolicella Ripasso- This is made by taking newly fermented Valpolicella and adding Amarone pomace (That is what is left post the pressing of Amarone grapes). The pomace is left in for a few weeks so that the Valpolicella may extract all of the extra color, tannin, flavor & structure.
recioto della Valpolicella- Like Amarone this wine is made from the ripest grapes possible, that are put into special drying rooms allowing the grapes to raisinate, to concentrate their sugar. The difference between Amarone and this wine is that fermentation is halted to preserve some sugar, like that of its Soave sister.

DOCG’s and all that Jazz!

There are 14 distinct DOCG’s in the Veneto that are worth remembering and tons more DOC’s if you have the time. Today I will delve into the wine laws of these 14 DOCG’s:

List Of DOCG’s:

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
Bardolino Superiore DOCG
Colli Aspolani (Asolo Prosecco) DOCG
Colli di Conegliano DOCG
Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio DOCG
Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG
Friularo di Bagnoli (Bagnoli Friularo) DOCG
Lison DOCG
Montello Rosso/Montello DOCG
Piave Malanotte/ Malanotte del Piave DOCG
Recioto di Gambellara DOCG
Recioto di Soave DOCG
Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG
Soave Superiore DOCG

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG (Est 2010)

Region– Veneto
Province-Verona
Number of Communes– 19
Four Levels of Note- Amarone della Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena, & Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva
Grapes- 45- 95% Corvina, 5-30% Rodinella and a max of 25% “other” red grapes, with no single other grape comprising more than 10%
Min Alch- 14%
Max Residual Sugar- 12 g/l
Aging requirements- Amarone della Valpolicella- Min of 2 years from the 1st January of the year following harvest. Riserva- Min of 4 years from the 1st November fallowing harvest.
Other Restrictions- Grapes may not be vinified before December 1st of the harvest year. No more then 65% of a producers total maximum yield may be used to make Amarone.
Min Planting Density- 3,300 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yeilds- 12 tons per hectare

Bardolino Superiore DOCG (Est 2011)

Region- Veneto
Province- Verona
Number of Communes- 15
Levels of Bardolino Superiore- Bardolino Superiore, & Bardolino Superiore Classico
Grapes- 35-65% Corvina Veronese, 10-40% Rodinella & Max 20% “other” red grapes, with no single other grape comprising more than 10%
Min Alch- 12%
Max Residual Sugar- 6 g/l
Aging Requirements- Min one year from November 1st of the harvest year.
Min Planting Density- 3,300 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields- 9 tons per hectare

Colli Asolani (Asolo Prosecco) DOCG (Est 2009)

Region- Veneto
Province- Treviso
Number of Communes- 17
Types of Colli Asolani DOCG- Colli Asolani (Tranquillo), Frizzante, Spumante, & Spumante Superiore
Grapes- Min 85% Prosecco (Glera), Max 15% blend of Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, & Glera Lunga, Max 15% Pinot Nero, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, & Chardonnay
Min Alch- Basic: 10.5%, Spumante Superiore: 11%
Sweetness Levels- Frizzante- Secco to Amabile, & Spumante Superiore: Extra Brut to Dolce
Other Restrictions- Frizzante wines may undergo a second fermentation in the bottle, and when done they must be labeled, “rifermentazione in bottiglia”
Min Planting Density- 3,000 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields- 12 tons per hectare

Colli di Conegliano DOGC (Est 2011)

Region- Veneto
Province- Treviso
Number of Communes- 20
Types of Colli di Conegliano DOGC- Bianco, Rosso, Rosso Riserva, Refrontolo (Roso), Refrontolo Passito (Rosso), & Torchiato di Fregona (Bianco Passito)
Grapes-
- Bianco- Min 30% Manzoni Bianco & Min Combined 30% Chardonnay & Pinot Bianco, Max 10% combined Sauvignon & Riesling
- Rosso- Min 10% Cabernet Sauvignon Min 10% Cab Franc, Min 10% Marzemino, 10-40% Merlot & Max combined 20% Incrocio Manzoni & Refosc
Min Alch- Bianco: 12%, Rosso: 12.5%, & Rosso Riserva 13%
Aging Requierments-
- Bianco: Min 4 months from November 1st of the harvest year
- Rosso: Min 24 months from November 1st of the harvest year, including at least 12 months in oak
- Rosso Riserva: Min 36 months from November 1st of the harvest year, including at least 12 months in oak
Min Planting Density- 3,000 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields- None

Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio DOCG (Est 2010)

Region- Veneto
Province- Padua
Number of Communes:17
Types of Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio DOCG- Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio Tranquillo (Secco, or Dolce), Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio Spumante, & Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio Passito
Grapes- Min 95% Moscato Giallo, Max 5% other aromatic veriatels
Min Alch- Tranquillo: 10.5% (4.5% for Dolce), Spumante 10.5%, Passito: 15.5%
Min Residual Sugar- Dolce: 50 g/l, Spumante: 50 g/l, & Passito 50 g/l
Aging Requirements- Passito Min one year from November 1st of the harvest year
Min Planting Density- 4,000 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields- 12 tons per hectare

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG (Est 2009)

Region- Veneto
Province- Treviso
Number of Communes- 15
Subzone- Cartizze
Types of Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG- Prosecco (Tranquillo), Frizzante, Spumante Superiore, Spumante Superiore w/ notation of “Rive” vineyard, & Spumante Superiore di Cartizze
Grapes- Min 85% Prosseco (Glera), Max combined 15% Verdiso, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, & Glera Lunga, & Max combined 15% Pinot Nero, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio ( Spumante wines only)
Min Alch-Basic- 10.5%, Spumante Superiore 11%, Spumante di Cartizze 11.5%
Sweetness Levels- Frizzante: Secco to Amabile, & Spumante Superiore: Brut-Dolce
Aging Requirements- None
Other Requirements-
- Wines labeled “Rive” must be handharvested, indicate a vintage & list one of the 43 vineyards from this hillside on the label.
- Frizzante wines may undergo a second fermentation in the bottle, and when done they must be labeled, “rifermentazione in bottiglia”
Min Planting Density- 2,500 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields- 12-13 tons per hectare

Friularo di Bagnoli (Bagnolu Friularo) DOCG (Est. 2011)

Region- Veneto
Province- Padova
Number of Communes- 13 & Classico Zone: 1
Types of Friularo di Bagnoli DOCG- Basic, Riserva, Vendemmia Tardiva (Dry), Passito, & Classico (Can also be Riserva, Vendemmia Tardiva, or Passito)
Grapes- Min 90% Raboso Piave, Max 10% any other red grapes of the region.
Min Alch-Basic & VT- 11.5%, Riserva 12.5%, Passito 15.5%
Ageing Requirements-
- Basic: Min 12 months from Novermber 1st of the harvest year
- Riserva: Min 24 months from November 1st of the harvest year including at least 12 months in oak
- Passito: Min 24 months in oak from November 1st of the harvest year
Other Requirements-
- Passito: Grapes must be dried until at least December 8th following the harvest
- VT: At least 60% must be harvested & vinified after November 11th
Min Planting Density- 2,500 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields: 11-12 tons per hectare

Lison DOCG (Est 2010)

Region- Veneto & Friluli
Province- Venice, Treviso (Veneto), & Pordenone (Friuli)
Number of Communes-19
Types of Lison DOCG-
- Lison
- Lison Classico
Grapes- Min 85% Tai (Friulano), & Max 15% non-aromatic whites of the region
Min Alch-Basic 12%, Classico 12.5%
Aging Requirements- Wines may not be released before March 1st of the year following harvest.
Min Planting Density- 3,000 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields- 10-11 tons per hectare

Montello Rosso/ Montello DOCG (Est 2011)

Region- Veneto
Province- Treviso
Number of Communes- 18
Types of Montello Rosso DOCG- Rosso, & Rosso Superiore
Grapes- 40-70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30-60% combined Merlot, Cabernet Franc, & Carmenere, Max 15% any other red grapes of the region
Min Alch-Basic 12.5%, Classico 13%
Aging Requirements-
- Basic: Min 18 months from November 1st of the harvest year, including 9 months in oak, & 6 months in bottle
- Superiore: Min 24 months from November 1st of the harvest year, including at least 12 months in oak, & 6 months in bottle
Min Planting Density- 3,500 vines per hectare (2.47 Acres)
Max Yields- 10 tons per hectare

Piave Malanotte/ Malanotte del Piave DOCG (Est 2010)

Region- Veneto
Province- Verona/ Treviso
Type of Piave Malanotte DOCG- Rosso
Grapes- Min 70% Raboso Piave, Max 30% Raboso Veronese, Max 5% other grapes from these regions (15-30% of the grapes must be dried until at least December 8th of the harvest year)
Min Alch-12.5%
Max Residual Sugar- 8 g/l
Aging Requirements- Min 3 years from November 1st of the harvest year, including at least 12 months in oak & 4 months in bottle.
Min Planting Density-
- Bellussi (“Raggi”) Training 1.250 vines per hectare
- Other methods 2500 vines per hectar
Max Yields- 12 tons per hectare

Recioto di Gambellara DOCG (Est 2008)

Region-Veneto
Province- Vicenza
Number of Communes- 4
Types of Recioto di Gambellara DOCG- Classico, & Classico Spumante
Grapes-100% Garganega
Min Alch-Classico 11.5% & Spumante 11%
Aging Requirements- May not be released until September 1st of the year following harvest
Min Planting Density- 3,300 vines per hectare
Max Yields- 6.25 tons per hectare

Recioto di Soave DOCG (Est 1998)

Region-Veneto
Province- Verona
Number of Communes- Basic: 12, & Classico: 3
Types of Recioto di Soave DOCG- Basic, Classico, & Spumante
Grapes- Min 70% Garganega, Max combined 30% Trebbiano di Soave, Chardonnay & Pinot Bianco
Min Alch-16%
Min Residual Sugar- 70 g/l
Aging Requirements- May not be released until September 1st of the year following harvest
Min Planting Density- 3,300 vines per hectare
Max Yields- 9 tons per hectare

Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG (Est 2010)

Region-Veneto
Province- Verona
Number of Communes- Basic: 19, & Classico: 5
Types of della Valpolicella DOCG- Basic, Classico, Spumante, Valpantena, & Valpantena Spumante
Grapes- Min 45-95% Corvina, 5-30% Rondinella, Max 25% other red grapes of the region (10% of which have to be native)
Min Alch-14%
Aging Requirements- Grapes may not be vinified before December 1st of the harvest year
Min Planting Density- 3,300 vines per hectare
Max Yields- 12 tons per hectare

Soave Superiore DOCG (Est 2002)

Region-Veneto
Province- Verona
Number of Communes- Basic:12, & Classico: 2
Types of Soave Superiore DOCG- Basic, Superiore, & Superiore Riserva
Grapes- Min 70% Garganega, Max 30% combined Trebbiano di Soave, Chardonnay & Pinot Bianco
Min Alch-Superiore: 12%, & Riserva: 12.5%
Max Residual Sugar- 6 g/l
Aging Requirements-
- Superiore: May not be released until September 1st the year after harvest, including 3 months bottle aging
- Riserva: Min 2 years from November 1st of the harvest year, inclusing at least 3 months of bottle aging
Min Planting Density-4,000 vines per hectare
Max Yields- 10 tons per hectare

I hope this was a great starting point into your study of the Veneto!

Check out my Veneto Show, where I taste through 3 classic wines from the region http://winesoaked.com/2013/the-veneto-wine-show-2013/

As always I welcome thoughts and comments, and feel free to share any additional info you may have on this region.

Cheers until next time, when we will explore Asti!

Essays / F&B Tips / Spirit Lab — No Comments
20
Nov 12

Spirit Lab: Gin

As the holidays are approaching, I am going to feature the history of classic spirits to provide a better love and understanding for these products.

I decided what better spirit to start with then the first one I ever enjoyed drinking all by itself: Gin.

Historical Time Line:

1550 -16oo-Dutch professor of medicine Dr. Franciscus de la Boë created a juniper and spice-flavored medicinal spirit that he promoted as a diuretic. There are some who claim that Antoine de Bourbon, Count de Moret of France actually invented gin by blending a grape based distillate with Juniper and calling it Juniper Wine… I will chalk this up to the mysteries of collective consciousness.
1580s-The tasty spirit was found in Holland by British troops who were fighting against the Spanish in the Dutch War of Independence. They gratefully drank it to give them what they soon came to call “Dutch courage” in battle.
1600s-The Dutch were encouraged by their government to favor grain spirits over imported wine and brandy by lack of excise taxes on local drinks.
1720s-Dutch Protestant William of Orange and his English wife Mary became co-rulers of England after the “Glorious Revolution.” They banned the import of Catholic-made wine, causing about a quarter of the households in London to make their own gin. Mass drunkenness became a serious problem.
1736- Gin Act of 1736(Prohibition FAIL #1)- Government tries to prohibit gin production, resulting in massive illicit distilling and the cynical marketing of “medicinal” spirits with fun names such as: Cuckold’s Comfort and My Lady’s Eye Water.
1800-1900s- Major government reforms in Europe improve production and materials, and slowly transform gin’s image away from drunk disheveled street urchins swilling rotgut gin, to a spirit of class and culture.
1600s-1900s- Gin is a back seat player in the North American spirits game. Paul Revere and George Washington were notably fond of gin, and the Quakers were well-known for their habit of drinking gin toddies after funerals.
1920s-(Prohibition FAIL #2)- The US prohibition act gave rise to bathtub gin, jazz, mob-run speakeasies, US cocktail culture, and the swankiest counterculture in US history.
1930s-1960s- It was the dominant white spirit in the US, made famous by “three martini lunches.” It was the image of class, and success.
1970-1980s- Was unseated in the US by vodka & wine, ironically by another counterculture movement who deemed gin a symbol of “the Man.” It was even betrayed by James Bond, who ordered a vodka martini instead of a gin martini… Shame on you Mr. Bond!
1990s-As the US economy got bigger and better, so did its thirst for gin. The power martini was back in fashion.
2000-2012- The rise of mixology and micro-distilleries. This is the time of making cocktails & spirit production an art, sometimes in new and inventive ways and sometimes by perfecting and refining old traditions. Either way it is a very exciting time to be a gin drinker.

What’s In A Name?:

The name gin is an English shortening of Genever, the Dutch word for juniper.

Development of Style:

Victorian era England in the mid-19th century ushered in a low-key rehabilitation of gin’s reputation. The harsh, sweetened “Old Tom” styles of gin of the early 1700s slowly gave way to a new cleaner style called Dry Gin.

This style of gin became identified with the city of London to the extent that the term “London Dry” Gin became a generic term for the style, regardless of where it was actually produced.

Ladies who lunch sipped sloe gin (gin flavored with sloe berries) while reading Bronte. Incidentally, I desperately want to taste a sloe berry!

There are three commonly recognized distillation styles for gin:

Pot distilled gin- It represents the earliest style of gin, and is traditionally produced by pot distilling a fermented grain mash (malt wine) from barley and or other grains, then redistilling it with flavoring botanicals to extract the aromatic compounds. A double gin can be produced by redistilling the first gin again with more botanicals. Due to the use of pot stills, the alcohol content of the distillate is relatively low; around 68% ABV for a single distilled gin or 76% ABV for a double gin. This type of gin is often aged in tanks or wooden casks, and retains a heavier, malty flavor that is appealing to whiskey lovers. This method is loved by many artisans and purists.
Column distilled gin-This method came after the invention of the coffee still and is produced by first distilling high proof (e.g. 96% ABV) neutral spirit from a fermented mash or wash using a refluxing still. The fermentable base for this spirit may be derived from grain, sugar beets, grapes, potatoes, sugar cane, plain sugar, or any other material of agricultural origin. The highly concentrated spirit is then redistilled with juniper berries and other botanicals in a pot still. Most often, the botanicals are suspended in a ‘gin basket’ positioned within the head of the still, which allows the hot alcoholic vapors to extract flavorings components from the botanicals. This method yields a gin lighter in flavor than the older pot still method, and results in either a distilled gin or London dry gin, depending largely upon how the spirit is finished. This is how many of the larger gin houses produce their product.
Compound gin- is made by simply flavoring neutral spirits with essences and/or other ‘natural flavorings’ without distillation, and is not as highly regarded as distilled gin.

There are four labeling distinctions: (With an endless number of smaller distinctions)

Juniper-Flavored Spirit Drinks – This includes the earliest class of gin, which is produced by pot distilling a fermented grain mash to moderate strength (e.g. 68% ABV), and then redistilling it with botanicals to extract the aromatic compounds. It must be bottled at a minimum of 30% ABV. Juniper-Flavored Spirit Drinks may also be sold under the names Wacholder or Genebra.

Gin – This is a juniper flavored spirit made by simply adding approved natural flavoring substances to a neutral spirit of agricultural origin. The predominant flavor must be juniper.

Distilled gin – Distilled gin is produced exclusively by redistilling ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin with an initial strength of 96% ABV in stills traditionally used for gin, in the presence of juniper berries and of other natural botanicals, provided that the juniper taste is predominant. Gin obtained simply by adding essences or flavorings to ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin is not distilled gin. It is the most common way.

London gin – London gin is obtained exclusively from ethyl alcohol of agricultural origin with a maximum methanol content of 5 grams per hectoliter of 100% ABV equivalent, whose flavor is introduced exclusively through the re-distillation in traditional stills of ethyl alcohol in the presence of all the natural plant materials used, the resultant distillate of which is at least 70% ABV. London gin may not contain added sweetening exceeding 0.1 gram of sugars per liters of the final product, nor colorants, nor any added ingredients other than water. The term London gin may be supplemented by the term “dry”. It is the traditionalist method.

Cocktail Culture:

Cocktails seem to have been birthed out of the British military, particularly the officer corps. Hundreds of gin-based mixed drinks were invented and the mastery of their making was considered part of a young officer’s training (If this was still a thing I might have enlisted.) The best known of these cocktails, the Gin & Tonic, was created as a way for Englishmen in tropical colonies to take their daily dose of quinine, to ward off malaria. Modern tonic water still contains quinine, though as a flavoring rather than a medicine. As we have already discussed, the US gin cocktail culture was at its peek from the 1920s-1960s, with a mini pop in the 90s, and a boom now.

There are a million gin cocktail recipes to be found, and a million more being invented by mixologists every day. Below are a few classics you may want to experiment with:

Fallen Angel

Gibson

Gimlet

Gin and Tonic

Gin Fizz

Gin Rickey

Moon River

Martini

Negroni

Old Etonian

Pink Gin

Ramos Gin Fizz

Satan’s Whiskers

Singapore Sling

The Last Word

Tom Collins

Vesper

White Lady

Stay Tuned:

Throughout the year I will be posting shows on how to make seasonal cocktails, highlighting some of my favorite producers. This month I will be featuring Martin Miller’s Gin, with some fun holiday cocktails. I will try to resist growing a fancy mixologist handlebar mustache, but I can’t promise anything. After all, it is Mo-vember.

Essays / Wine Show Episodes — No Comments
28
Oct 12

Friuli Wine Show

Friuli Wine Facts:

Years of wine production:

Before the phylloxera epidemic, the winemaking history of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia was strongly influenced by the Byzantine Empire’s trading routes to the trading center of Venice. During the Middle Ages, travelers passing through this area brought grapevines from Macedonia and Anatolia. Under the Hapsburg reign, the French grape varieties were gradually introduced, until more than 350 grape varieties were grown in the region. During the 19th century, the region served as a major Mediterranean port for the Austro-Hungarian Empire which brought a Teutonic influence to the area. There are still traces of all of these influences right up to the present.

After phylloxera, production in this region was stunted; it did not start to hit its stride until the 1970s as far as quality wine production is concerned.

Size of Friuli & Placement:

Friuli–Venezia Giulia is Italy’s most North-Eastern region. It covers an area of 7,858 km and is the fifth smallest region of the country. It borders Austria to the north and Slovenia to the east. To the south it faces the Adriatic Sea and to the west its internal border is with the Veneto region.

Grapes produced:

Over 30 different grapes varieties are grown in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia including international varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot as well as local varieties like Refosco dal peduncolo rosso, Schioppettino, Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Verduzzo. Although this region is most famous for white wine production, Merlot is actually the most planted grape in the region. Here is a list of some of the most produced varietals:

Whites:

Chardonnay
Pinot Grigo
Sauvignon Blanc “Sauvignon”
Gewürztraminer
Riesling
Pinot Bianco
Frilulano (Tocai Friulano)
Ribolla Giallo
Verduzzo
Malvasia
Riesling Italico
Moscato Giallo

Reds:

Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Franc
Pinot Noir
Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso
Schiopettino
Pignolo
Pinot Nero
Moscato Rosa

A Bit on Wine Law –

These are the EU changes to the DOC system starting in 2008… and continuing to be shaped today.

Italian Wine Classifications:

Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) / Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP)
Donominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) / Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP)
Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) / Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP)
Vino (formerly Vino da Tavola)

Friuli’s Main Growing Regions:

There are 9 Denominazione di origin controllata (DOC) and 4 Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia area. The region has 3 Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) designations: Alto Livenza, delle Venezie and Venezia Giulia. Nearly 62% of the wine produced in the region falls under a DOC designation.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia DOCGs (DOP)

Ramandolo-

Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia
Province: Udine
Communes of Production: Nimis, Tarcento
Denominazione (Bianco): Ramandolo
Varieties: 100% Verduzzo Friulano (Verduzzo Giallo)
Minimum Alcohol: 14%
Minimum Planting Density: 3,000 vines per hectare
Maximum Yields: 8 tons/ha, 52 hl/ha
DOCG Established: 2001

Colli Orientali del Friuli-Picolit-

Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia
Province: Udine
Communes of Production: Nimis, Tarcento, Cividale del Friuli, Prepotto, Attimis, Faedis, Torreano, Manzano, S. Pietro al Natisone, S.Giovanni al Natisone, Buttrio, Ipplis, Corno di Rosazzo, Trigesimo, Premariacco
Subzones: Cialla (produced in the commune of Prepotto)
Denominazione (Bianco):
- Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit
- Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit Cialla
- Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit Cialla Riserva
Varieties:
- Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit: Minimum 85% Picolit, maximum 15% other white grapes of Friuli, excluding Gewürztraminer
- Cialla: 100% Picolit
Minimum Alcohol:
- Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit: 15%
- Cialla: 16%
Aging Requirements:
- Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit: May not be sold until September 1 of the year following the harvest
- Cialla: May not be sold until September 1 of the second year following the harvest
- Cialla Riserva: Minimum 4 years aging from November 1 of the harvest year
Minimum Planting Density: 3,500 vines per hectare
Maximum Yields: 4 tons/ha, 22 hl/ha
DOCG Established: 2006

Lison (shared with Veneto)-

Region: Veneto and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia
Province: Venice (Veneto), Treviso (Veneto), Pordenone (Friuli)
Communes of Production: 19
- Classico Zone: Lison, Pradipozzo and Summaga (fraziones of Portugruaro); Belfiore, Blessaglia, and Salvarolo (fraziones of Pramaggiore); Carline and Loncon (fraziones of Annone Veneto); Cinto Caomaggiore; Santo Stinto
Denominazione (Bianco):
- Lison
- Lison Classico
Varieties:
- Min. 85% Tai (Friulano)
- Max. 15% other non-aromatic white grapes suitable for Venice, Treviso, and Pordenone
Minimum Alcohol:
- Lison: 12%
- Lison Classico: 12.5%
Aging Requirements: Wines may not be released before March 1 of the year following the harvest
Minimum Planting Density: 3,000 vines per hectare
Maximum Yields:
- Lison: 11 tons/ha
- Lison Classico: 10 tons/ha
DOCG Established: 2010

Rosazzo –

Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia
Province: Udine

Denominazione: Bianco
Grape Varieties:
- Min. 50% Friulano (Tai)
- 20-30% Sauvignon Blanc
- 20-30% Pinot Bianco and/or Chardonnay
- Max. 10% Ribolla
- Max. 5% other white varieties suitable for cultivation in Udine
Minimum Alcohol: 12%
Aging Requirements: Rosazzo must be placed on the market by April 1 of the second year after harvest
Minimum Planting Density: 4,000 vines per hectare
Maximum Yields: 8 tons/ha, 56 hl/ha
DOCG Established: 2011 (formerly a subzone of Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC)
The Rosazzo DOCG was created amid a flurry of wine administration activity in 2011, as Italy prepared to hand over wine-legislation powers to the EU.

Friuli’s DOC’s (DOP)

Carso

Rosso: min. 70% Terrano
Varietal Wines require a min. 85% of the stated variety

Collio Goriziano/Collio-

Bianco and Rosso wines may be comprised of any blend of the approved varieties (Müller-Thurgau and Malvasia combined may not account for more than 15% of the Bianco blend)
Wines labeled “Cabernet” require 100%
Combined Cab. Franc, Cab. Sauvignon and/or Carmenère; all Varietal wines require a min. 85% of the stated variety
White wines may be labeled “riserva” with a min. 20 months aging, red wines may be labeled “riserva” with a min.
30 months aging, including at least 6 months in wood

Friuli Annia–

Rosso, Rosato, and Bianco wines may be comprised of any blend of the approved varieties.
Spumante Bianco: min. 90% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Bianco.
Varietal Wines require a min. 90% of the stated variety
Rosato wines must be made by saignage.
Spumante wines must be brut or demi-sec.
Rosso and Varietal red wines may be labeled “Riserva” with a min. 2 years of aging (including at least one year in wood).
Bianco, Rosato, and some varietal white wines may be produced as frizzante.

Friuli Colli Orientali–

Rosso and Bianco wines may be comprised of any blend of the approved varieties.
Wines labeled “Cabernet” require a min. 85% combined Cab. Franc, Cab. Sauvignon and/or Carmenère.
All Varietal Wines require a min. 85% of the stated variety
All wines may be labeled “Riserva” with a min. 2 years of aging.
Dolce wines have a min. 50 g/l of residual sugar.
There are five legal subzones: Cialla, Ribolla Gialla di Rosazzo, Pignolo di Rosazzo, Refosco di Faedis and Schioppettino di Prepotto. Each subzone has its own requirements and varieties.

Friuli Grave-

Rosso, Rosato, and Bianco wines may be comprised of any blend of the approved varieties.
Cines labeled “Cabernet” may be Cab. Franc and/or Cab. Sauvignon; Varietal Wines require 90% of the stated variety.
All wines except Rosato may be Superiore with an additional degree of alcohol.
All wines except Rosato may be labeled “Riserva” with a min. 2 years of aging. Rosato and some varietal wines may be frizzante.

Friuli Isonzo / Isonzo del Friuli–

Bianco and Rosso/Rosato wines may be blended from any approved white and red varieties, respectively, except Moscato Gialla and Moscato Rosa.
Wines labeled “Cabernet” require 100% Cab. Franc and/or Cab. Sauvignon.
Varietal Wines require 100% of the stated variety.
Chardonnay Spumante may include up to 15% Pinot Nero
Pignolo wines must be aged for a min. 2 years.

Friuli Latisana–

Bianco: Min. 60% Friulano, max. 30% Chardonnay and/or Pinot Bianco
Rosso and Rosato: min. 60% Merlot, max. 30% Carmenère, Cab. Sauvignon and/or Cab. Franc
Wines labeled “Cabernet” require a min. 85% combined Cab. Sauvignon, Cab. Franc, and Carmenère
Varietal Wines require a min. 85% of stated variety
Rosso, Bianco, Red Varietal Wines, Passito, and Friulano Varietal Wines may be labeled “riserva” with a min. 2 years of aging.
Many varietal wines can also be released as superiore or frizzante

Lison-Pramaggiore-

This DOC is located in both Friuli and Veneto

Prosecco-

This DOC is located in both Friuli and Veneto

Wines On Today’s Show:

Marco Felluga:

MARCO FELLUGA is situated in Gradisca d’Isonzo, province of Gorizia. Founded in 1956, the estate is both a pioneer in quality as well as innovation and today comprises 250 acres of vineyards of which production is roughly seventy five percent white grapes and the remainder red. All of the wines come from vineyards within the most important DOC known as Collio Goriziano, or Collio.

The white wines are filtered before being fermented at controlled temperatures in stainless steel vats. A certain proportion of the wine is refined in wooden casks, as are some of the red wines. The equipment used in the winemaking is of the latest technology updated through continual experimentation and in order to obtain the ideal results in harmony with respect for tradition.

The property today is managed by Roberto Felluga, son of the prominent Marco Felluga, the inheritor of the founding Marco.

http://www.dallaterra.com/pdf/Felluga.pdf

http://www.marcofelluga.it/Marco%20Felluga%20Collio%20Bianco%20Molamatta.asp

Marco Felluga Molamatta Collio Bianco DOC 2009

Blend & Oak: 40% Friulano, 40%Pinot Bianco 20% Ribolla Gialla. Pinot Bianco is fermented in small oak barrels, the balance is fermented in stainless steel.

Sight:

Color: Bright yellow to watery rim
Brightness: Brilliant
Viscosity: Medium
Age/Conditions: Youthful/Healthy/No Gas/No Sediment

Nose: The nose is youthful and highly aromatic. There are strong notes of Meyer lemon, Kefir lime, and ripe peach, laced with herbal notes of Thai basil, fresh cut grass, and cucumber, and high notes of jasmine, and Lilly, and a slight trail of lucky charms marshmallows.

Pallet:

Acid: High
Sugar: Dry
Body: Medium +
Alcohol: 13.5%
Complexity: High

Primary Notes: The citrus, and floral notes carry to the pallet. Along with a silky vanilla note.

Oak: Subtle new oak.

Quality: High

Finish: Lingering and exciting.

Possible Pairings: Creamy cheeses such as Robiola Bosina, spicy Thai dishes such as Rama, or Panang.

Borgo Magredo:

Borgo Magredo is located in the “Grave del Friuli” appellation. The characteristic gravelly soil of this area is created by the Meduna River, which flows down from Carnic Pre-Alps, bringing along pebbles and stones. The soil is so “meager” (hence the Italian word “Magredo”) that the vines appear to be planted in a streambed.

These stones have always been part of a local tradition: the art of mosaics! History tells us that the mosaic in the cathedral of Santa Eufemia was composed, in the VI century, with stones taken from the area where Borgo’s vineyards are now located. Borgo Magredo has chosen a mosaic as its symbol and tribute to the cultural achievements of the school of mosaic art in Spilimbergo.

Piero Totis – The particular microclimate of its location contributes substantially to the distinct style of Borgo’s wines. The stones in the soil capture heat during the day and release it at night, protecting the grapes from the low temperatures. The warm draft then flows towards the mountains and its low-pressure draws cooler breezes from the snowy peaks. The cool-warm temperature cycles span over 4 square miles of Grave vineyards and contribute to the unique aroma, flavor and fragrance of Borgo’s wines.

Borgo Magredo, with its 250 hectares of vineyards (almost 620 acres) and a production capacity of one million bottles per year, is the largest estate in Friuli. Owned by the insurance company “Generali”, Borgo Magredo is equipped with the most modern technology as the innovative vacuum-press that crushes the white grapes very gently.

http://www.winesfrombedford.com/suppliers/borgo_magredo.php

Borho Magredo Mosaic Pinot Grigio, Friuli Grave DOC, 2010

Production: Estate bottled 100% Pinot Grigio. Temperature controlled fermentation in new stainless steel vats.

Sight:

Color: Dusty light peach to a silver rim
Brightness: Star bright
Viscosity: Medium
Age/Conditions: Healthy/ Youthful/ No Gas/ No Sediment/ Possible Skin Contact

Nose: This is a healthy nose with a bit of development and or lees aging. It leads with tropical notes of banana, green mango, and bruised apple, followed by notes of short bread, and saline.

Pallet:

Acid: High
Sugar: Dry
Body: Medium
Alcohol: 12.5%
Complexity: Medium

Primary Notes: There are more citrus notes of tangerine & Meyer lemon, followed by the same tropical notes from the nose. The yeasty and salty notes carry to the pallet which confirm my suspicions of lees and skin contact.

Oak: No Oak

Quality: High

Finish: Lingering

Possible Pairings: Garlic cream sauces & fatty fish such as Sea Bass.

If you are looking to visit the region here are some fun resources:

Discover Friuli Wine Tours:

Aimed at anyone with a love and appreciation of fine food and wine, you’ll enjoy special visits to leading wine estates as well as boutique wineries. You’ll meet the wine-makers, share their knowledge about the wine-making process and taste lots of wine!

http://www.discoverfriuli.com/eng/wine/wine.html

Private Friuli Wine Tour:

During our day, we will visit prestigious wineries that are renowned for both the high quality of their wines and the historical value of their estates. Combined with scenic drives through the delightful countryside and the visit of a charming hill town, a very special day awaits you.

http://www.tours-italy.com/venice-italy_wine_tours-friuli_wine_tasting.htm

Hope this is has been fun and informative!

Salute!

Essays / Miscellaneous — No Comments
18
Oct 12

Drinking Inside The Box

I am aware that boxed wine has a stigma, and based on some examples that are out there it is with good cause. However, I would like to help tip the scales in the other direction, as the technology is great!!! And the value is amazing… especially if you use wine when you cook.

I have been aware that box wine was breaking into the fine wine market for a few years now. Two Christmases ago in Chicago, there were many distributors pushing wooden boxes as a fun gift alternative. Among some of the more successful offerings were Domaine Le Garrigon, Cotes du Rhone, Ch du Chatelard Bourgeon Blanc, & Ch Les Maines Bordeaux Blanc. These were all offerings from WineBerry Imports. The packaging was stylish and the whites even had a wooded slat that would slide up so that you could place an ice pack inside for picnics, parties and the like. As a wine drinker I was impressed, but as a professional wine buyer at the time, I was not on board as the stigma of boxed wines was huge, and these offering were usually $40 or more, which is a deal for 3000 mL, however still a costly and a hard sell to a wine buying community that still scoffed at screw caps.

Times have changed though. From 2009 to now I have seen tap systems go into many bars across the USA, which is basically a big pressurized box (or keg) of wine. And I have even seen and ordered boxed wine off of restaurant menus. In the summer and fall of 2010 Big Bowl in Chicago, a Lettuce Entertain You outlet, offered a boxed Rose produced by Yellow and Blue, an organic producer. It was a perfect pair for the spicy Asian dishes on the menu, and I am not ashamed to say that my fellow wine enthusiast friends and I put away more than one box… especially on ½ price bottle (box) Tuesday. It is clear that the educated wine community is jumping on the Go Green initiative, and is more and more willing to look past the vessel to what is in side.

I believe that boxed wine has great potential for success. The trick is how to get the average consumer on board. And since my temporary relocation to the Rio Grande Valley in South Texas I have been buying wine like an average consumer, so I believe I have sussed out how box wine is every man’s best friend. I have been living on Bota Box Chard since July due to the lack of drinkable wines available in my immediate surroundings.

Budget: There are now many decent boxed wines on the market for $15-$30 a box. A box fits the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine. That puts it at a $3.75- $7.50 per bottle, and most of these are highly drinkable table wines…. Much better than many $3-$10 bottles I have had in my life.

Freshness: Boxed wine stays as fresh as the day you tapped the nozzle for over a month. This is due to the double valve in the nozzle keeping oxygen from getting in. The bag is also protected from light as it is inside a box. This is great to ensure that you always have something to sip on, and it is perfect for cooking. Most chefs would agree that if you are cooking with wine it has to be good drinkable wine, and this is a handy and affordable way to make sure you always have a fresh supply on hand.

Low Carbon Foot Print: Aside from WineBerrys wooden boxes, boxed wines are usually in recycled cardboard boxes. The shipping and production of these vessels uses MUCH less energy and resources than heavy glass bottles. Also many boxed wine makers are also utilizing organic or Bio-Dynamic wine practices.

Style- Ironic is the current hip thing, so you can kind of look at boxed wine as a much tastier version of Pabst Blue Ribbon, if you are marketing to the millennial’s (IE: Anyone with a handlebar mustache, or Sally Jessie Raphael glasses… under the age of 40.) If your clientele is of the more sophisticated persuasion you can choose one of the nice wooden boxes of WineBerry’s line, or even go couture with a new line of wine purses being launched by Vernissage. They are starting a project where they are pumping French table wine in to Swedish-designed “Hand Bag Boxes”.

I hope that this positive trend continues. That being said, I feel that currently whites and roses are the tastier option in the boxed wine world. I have yet to taste a higher quality red out of one of these fun little nozzles… But I am always open to being proved wrong.

Below are the sites to producers I have mentioned:

http://www.wineberry.com

http://www.ybwines.com

http://www.botabox.com

http://www.vernissagewine.com/welcome.aspx

Happy Drinking!

Essays / Wine Show Episodes — No Comments
03
Oct 12

Texas Wine Show:

Texas Wine Facts:

Years of wine industry: 1650-present

Total area: 261,797 square miles (678,051 km2)

Size of planted vineyards: 3,200 acres (1,295 ha)

Grapes produced:

Aglianico

Blanc du Bois

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Sauvignon

Carignane

Chardonnay

Chenin Blanc

Gewurztraminer

Grenache

Lenoir

Malbec

Merlot

Montepulciano

Mourvedre

Muscadine

Muscat

Canelli

Mustang

Noble

Norton

Orange Muscat

Palomino

Petit Verdot

Pinot Gris

Pinot Noir

Primitivo

Riesling

Roussanne

Ruby Cabernet

Sangiovese

Sauvignon Blanc

Sauvignon Musque

Scuppernong

Semillon

Syrah

Touriga Nacional

Viognier

Zinfandel

History:

The earliest winemaking was by the Spanish missionaries in the 1600’s in the El Paso area. It is one of the earliest wine producing regions in the USA, however it has been plagued with diseases and climatic issues from the start, so Texas wine production as we know it today did not really take hold until the 1960’s with grafting and lots of experiments by Texas A&M.

Texas’s 8 AVA’s:

Mesilla Valley AVA (1985) – West Texas. Texas’ first AVA though primarily located in New Mexico with only small parts extending into Texas.

Bell Mountain AVA (1986)- Central Texas. First AVA completely within the state of Texas. Known for its distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon grown in northern Gillespie County.

Fredericksburg in the Texas Hill Country AVA (1989) – Central Texas. Known for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Texas Hill Country AVA (1991)- Central Texas. Located just west of Austin. With over 9,000,000 acres (3,600,000 ha), it is the second-largest AVA in the United States though less than 800 acres (320 ha) are planted in grape vines.

Escondido Valley AVA (1992)- West Texas. About 32,000 acres (13,000 ha) along the Pecos River in Pecos County.

Texas High Plains AVA (1993) – North Texas. The Texas Hill country is considered the most promising up and coming AVA, specializing in the production of Cabernet Sauvignon. Covering an area of over 8,000,000 acres (3,200,000 ha), 3,500 acres (1,400 ha) are planted with 20 wineries currently producing wine.

Texas Davis Mountains AVA (1998) – West Texas. Only one winery in existence when granted AVA status in 1998. Specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.

Texoma AVA (2005) – North Texas. The Texoma region is where 19th century viticulturist Thomas Volney Munson discovered the cure for France’s phylloxera epidemic.

Wines On Today’s Show: Llano Wine: http://www.llanowine.com The simple mission of Llano Estacado, from its beginning in 1976, to its role as industry leader today, has been to embody the fabulous potential of Texas wine. This mission began with 1,300 cases of wine releases in 1977. Today, Llano Estacado is the largest, Winery in Texas.

Chenin Blanc (NV) Escondido Valley

Oak: 100% stainless steel fermentation

Sight: Color: Pale straw-watery rim

Brightness: Star bright

Viscosity: Medium Age/Conditions: Healthy & Youthful

Nose: It is healthy…. maybe a tinge of sulfur. Lots of lime zest, lemon chiffon, ripe pear, and crisp green apple, fallowed with a chalky, limestone mineral note, and coated in honey

Pallet: This is a dry wine, with a dollop of residual sugar. There is healthy acidity, and loads of honey and pineapple notes. There is not as much mineral present in the mouth as there seemed to be in the nose. It is closer to a South African Chenin then a French Chenin.

Finish/Quality: This is an ok wine. Not as scary as I anticipated, but not mind blowing either. I feel that the RS and acid are not as balanced as they could be. That being said it is not bad for a $7.00 bottle, and it would be a good bridge for dry and sweet drinkers.

Possible Pairings: Penang Curry, or a nice stink blue cheese like St. Angur.

Chardonnay 2007, Escondido Valley

Oak: None-8 Months in Stainless Steel

Sight: Color: Electric Yellow-watery Rim

Brightness: Brilliant

Viscosity: Medium

Age/Conditions: Healthy & Youthful

Nose: This leads with sweet corn, and meyer lemon zest, and hey. It’s fallowed with a chalk & sea salt not that reminds me of Chablis. Although there is a trailing finishing note of plastic shower curtain that leaves cause for concern.

Pallet: Not even close to a Chablis. There is a plastic, chemical note. There is almost no fruit and tons of acid. This wine would have benefited from MLF or Oak.

Finish: Acidic and one note.

Possible Pairings: Nothing

Becker Vineyards: www.beckervineyards.com

Becker Vineyards was established in 1992. The vineyard was planted on a site of native Mustang grapes much prized for winemaking by German neighbors and their ancestors. A few years later the Beckers planted a three acre lavender field reminiscent of the wine country of Provence, France. The 46 acres of French Vinifera vines generate 14 different available varietals, including Syrah, Petite Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Claret 2010, Texas Hill Country

Oak: It was carefully matured in French and American oak barrels.

Blend: 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 5% Malbec, & 1% Cab Franc. The grapes are sourced from Texas High Plains grape growers, Laverne Newsom, & Dorothy Cooper.

Sight: Color: Garnet- Salmon rim

Brightness: Dull

Viscosity: Medium plus

Age/Conditions: Healthy & Developed

Nose: This starts with dried plum, violets, lavender, leather, and coco powder. This shows development.

Pallet : Dry, medium bodied, medium acidity, medium plus tannins, and a velvety finish. Loads of blueberries, plum, coco and violets. lovely layers.

Finish: Well done Becker estates, this reminds me of a cross between a Cahor and a Cab Blend from Paso Robles. It is fruity and elegant, with a refined rustic character.

Possible Parings: Lamb chops, Texas smoke house Brisket, or aged Gouda.

Planning a Trip: Check out the TX wine trail, it looks like a lovely wine country weekend with a touch of Southern Charm…. I’ll let you know what I think after I check it out. http://www.texaswinetrail.com/

Essays / F&B Tips — No Comments
28
Sep 12

Sara Kay’s Top 10 Cellar Management Tips

1. Less Is More:

There are many schools of thought as to the proper system of cellar management. After working in many cellars with many different teams of people, they only constant I have found is that there are no finite rules. The best thing to do is to figure out what your organizational style is and go from there. Also, keep your system simple. If you are anything like me you constantly wish that you could jam another day in your day, but alas that is not possible! So set yourself up for success and make a system that hits all the basics and still fits into your already busy schedule. Remember “perfect” is much better in theory than in practice.

2. Lighting, Temperature, & Positions are Everything:

Lighting- Wines should be away from bright hot lights! This goes beyond just sunlight. If you have a show cellar, you may be tempted to point some dazzling spot lights on your prized possessions, or if you are short on space you may want to put your cellar close to the kitchen and its heat lamps, but these are not good ideas. You want soft lighting at all times, with the least amount of heat emission possible. Anyway, it makes your cellar more romantic. (That being said do not make it so dark that you cannot read labels… that slows productivity & can cause staff to pull and sell incorrect wines)
Temperature- Of course there is a perfect temperature for every bottle, and for the right price you can purchase a cellar that has special temperature controlled compartments for all of your exacting needs. But if you have a budget that is slightly less than out of this world, I recommend storing all of your wine–white, red and sparkling–at 50-59 degrees. (This is also a much more bearable temperature to work in then 35). It is also a great temperature range to taste both whites and reds, however keep ice baths on hand for serving sparkling…. and white for some of your customers who will not buy the “whites should not be beer cold” spiel.
Humidity- Swamps are good for very few things… and wine is not among them. Humidity can affect the temperature of your wine, but most importantly it will damage your wine’s label, which affects its value and presentably. Would you buy a $600 Bordeaux with a wrinkly, stained, and peeling label?
Position- It is true that not all wine needs to be laid down… but if you have space to then you may as well do it. (But make sure you can do it safely, so that the bottles do not fall and break, or hit someone in the head…. I have some war wounds.) If you do not have space to lay everything down then I recommend that you find room to lay down your age-worthy wines, and sparkling wines, as they benefit from it the most.

3. Follow Your Life Lines:

It is important to know the life span of each of your wines, this way you can strategize how to move your wines before they die. It benefits no one to store dead wine, and more over it does your program damage to serve it.

4. Be Flexible With Your Storage:

I know how tempting it is to design a cellar with a perfectly fitting sleek little spot for each bottle, however if there is one constant I have noticed in wine is that there are NO Constants. A wine program is a living, growing, changing entity. So your storage area should be equally flexible. You should be able to add and subtract wines with little effort, and without having to totally overhaul your tracking and organizational system with every new order.

5. Make A ½ Day Every Week “Cellar Time”:

Let me start by saying that if you cannot stand detailed, repetitive tasks, then you should not be in charge of keeping your cellar in order, so find someone on your staff whose temperament and integrity fits the task. If you are up to the challenge, I recommend making a half-day of every week “Cellar Time”. I recommend doing this on the day of your deliveries, or the day after. I also recommend that this not be a busy business day for you. That way you can be focused on the task at hand. This is the most effective way of tracking your wines, putting them in their place, creating strategic sales tactics, and keeping an up-to-date log of purchases, loss, breakage, and theft.

6. INVENTORY!!!!!!!-

This is the most tedious and also the most essential thing you can do for your cellar. It is the best way to know exactly what you have, find wines that have wandered to the wrong place, and also ones that have wandered away. I always recommend doing this with a team of two people, so that one person can find the wines, and one person can record them. This also creates a built in checks and balance system so that no one has an opportunity to fudge the numbers. I recommend doing this quarterly. (Spot checking is not sufficient!)

7. Don’t Have Too Many Hands in the Cookie Jar:

Obviously everyone that sells wine will have to be able to navigate the cellar. However, I find it wise for there to be just one or two people in charge of entering wines into your system. There is less room for error, or unexplained mysteries this way.

8. Make Your Key Easy To Read & Update:

It is important to have a key that tracks your cellar, and that is organized in the same fashion as the list that your guests see. This make navigating it easy for everyone. Here are some basic things that you should consider including in each wine entry on your key:

Bin number
Location/Locations Stored
Full Title of the Wine
Vintage
List price
Your cost
Distributor
Date Purchased
Importer (if applicable)
Life Line
Notes- i.e.: fun facts, aging notes, discounts, replacements.

9. There are NO Good Vibrations:

Keep your cellar away from vibrations! This means anything from a jackhammer, to bass from your hip Friday night DJ. It can disturb sediment, improperly age wine, and in extreme cases knock wines out of storage and break them.

10. Do Not Buy More Then You Can Hold:

I know that closeout sales seem all too good, but as one who has worked on every end of the sales chain of this industry… they come around all the time. It does you no good to buy more then you can store. If wine cannot be stored properly it kills your investment. Also if you over-buy, you could be blowing your budget.

I hope these tips help!

Please feel free to post any thoughts or success stories.

As always if I am in your area I am available for all your cellaring needs.

Essays / Wine Services — No Comments
19
Sep 12

Sara Kay’s Top 10 Service Tips

I have always believed that good customer service is the most important part of any successful business. This is especially true in the food service industry, because your Chef may be amazing, your wine list may be to die for, but if the customers are treated poorly they will not come back & will most likely smear you in every Social Media outlet available. Here are 10 Tips I feel translate to good service no matter if you are Fine Dinning or Fast Food.

1. It is all in the Timing:

Your guest should never be kept waiting or wondering. You should try and anticipate their needs. You cannot always control what is happening in the back of the house, but you can control what your customer experiences. So frequently check in, and if there is a delay keep them informed in a positive way. People would always rather be informed then neglected. And I find when you get people their orders in a timely fashion they are likely to stick around and order more, and most importantly they are more likely to return!

2. Know Your Product:

It is your job as a server to know your menu and concept inside and out. (This should not be an assignment your manager should have to give you) When you are informed you can quickly answer any question thrown your way, and excite your guests. Excited guests are happy guests and that means more money for everyone.

3. SMILE:

No one likes to be served by tiered, grumpy, winey, bitchy, or snooty person. When you are at work you should leave your personal issues at home, or at the very least in the break room. The more pleasant you are to your guests they more they will return the favor. And the more pleasant you are to your co-workers and management the overall tone of your work place is better, and that is good business for everyone.

4. Be a problem solver:

If your guest has a question or problem, try and find the quickest solution possible. If you do not know the answer, offer them your best guess, and let them know that are going to find out for sure….. Then go find the answer and get back to them ASAP.

5. Take Ownership:

Of course every establishment has its own sets of rules and procedures, but there is always room to be yourself. Take pride in your guest interaction, and create some extra steps of service that are unique to you, It always leaves guests coming back for more.

6. Cleanliness Is Next to Awesomeness:

It goes without saying that hygiene is important in food handling. This goes beyond washing your hands. The joy of food is a sensual one, and if you are serving it you should not interfere with it. You should look and smell squeaky clean…. And yes this can be achieved even if you are tattooed from your nose to your toes, or a have a heaping hive of dreadlocks. The trick is to look attentive and alert, and do not SMELL of ANYTHING!!!! Say NO to cigarette smell, coffee breath, essential oils, perfumes, strong hair products, or BO! And always have a lint roller J you may love your pets, but your guests should not know you have them.

7. Help a Brother Out:

No matter if you work for a tip pooled house, an everyman to himself place, or you are hourly with no tips…. Service is a team sport, and if one man goes down you all suffer. If you see a team mate is having a problem and you have a chance to help… DO IT!!!! The favor will be returned. And with this everyone wins, especially your guest.

8. Know Your Food Allergies: (And don’t be a hater)

Food allergies are a real and growing problem. This goes hand in hand with knowing your menu. If a guest informs you they have a food allergy help them find a food they can enjoy, and if there is nothing suitable for them on the menu, be honest with them about that as well. Do not be annoyed by this! I promise it is more annoying for them to always be afraid of what they can eat that it is for you to find out if your coleslaw has dairy in it. And NEVER should your customers be at risk of an allergic reaction out of laziness or spite. Common Allergies Are:

Gluten
Nuts (Peanuts or Tree nuts)
Dairy
Sugar
Shellfish
Seafood
Mushrooms

9. Best Your Self:

Healthy competition with your co-workers is OK, but healthy competition with yourself is the BEST! I challenge you to pick a new item on the menu each week and become an expert on it. Try and know as much about it, get the most people excited about it, and sell the most of it as possible. This will have great positive effects on everyone.

10. Create a Community of Regulars:

Take time to know your guests. Acknowledge and thank them for repeat visits. Learn their likes and try and surprise them with new treats they would like. Everyone likes VIP treatment, and when you do it sincerely it feels good to give it as well.

Hope these tips help. They are just a few thoughts I compiling while developing my new service training module. I would love any feedback.

Essays — No Comments
18
Sep 12

Chardonnay… It’s Not Just Cougar Juice

I have never been a big fan of clubs or cliques as I feel like they limit people from amazing experiences… and there is one such club in the wine world that DRIVES ME NUTS!!! That is the ABC Club, AKA the Anything But Chardonnay Club.

I am going to say it: I am a Sommelier and I am absolutely bat-shit crazy in love with Chardonnay, and I love it in all its forms.

That is correct, there are many different forms of Chardonnay, not just the over-oaked, toasty, buttery Chardonnay from CA that is the bane of the ABC club, and has also achieved the absolutely fabulous name of “Cougar Juice”.

Let’s go back to the beginning of this noblest of all the noble white varietals. Historically Chardonnay’s homeland is France, most notably in Burgundy and Champagne… that’s right all you ABC-ers… I said Champagne. There are many different styles of Chard in Burgundy and I invite you to explore them all, however some are pricier than others. For the purpose of this article I will break it down to two styles: Oaked and Un-oaked. If you are part of the ABC club, or you just prefer a crisp clean citrusy style of white, I would like to direct your attention to Chablis. I am not talking about the cheap swill that is produced in the USA, and was super popular in the 70s. I am talking about the region in the northernmost reaches of Burgundy. They have always been all about chardonnay, and the pure expression of the grape, and the terrior (soil, climate etc). That means they do not use oak usually, because they want to show the natural crisp acidity of the grape. You can also find some nice unoaked or slightly oaked options in the Macon which is Southern Burgundy, and they are super cost effective to boot. In between these two regions is where arguably the most beautiful expression of grape and oak exists, and I must say I am frequently won over by that argument. Two of the best, yet sadly usually the most expensive, areas you can find these are Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet. These wines do see oak… French oak, and usually with a soft hand so they often express notes of golden apple, golden raisin, white flowers, vanilla, and brioche with a strong acidic back bone.

I do love Burgundy…. But I also love the myth behind how Chardonnay came to be planted there. I have heard many variations on this story, so now I will tell you mine. At this point I recommend you pour yourself a nice big glass of Chardonnay and get ready for story time.

Back in the days of yore & yester year King Charlemagne spent much of his time in Burgundy, which at the time was planted all to red grapes. He also apparently was quite the booze hound, and much to his chagrin he spilt the red wine all over his big fluffy white beard thus staining it. His wife did not approve of his boozy ways, and his scarlet beard often got him in trouble.

Charlemagne found himself in a bit of a pickle: he did love his wife and wanted to make her happy. Surely there was a way to so this, and most surely it did not involve quitting drinking, but what was to be done? He thought long and hard and outside the box. After much experimentation he discovered that white wine took out the red wine stains from his beard (FYI this is a real thing… email me if you want tips for stain removal). He also found that Chardonnay was the best white grape for the region viticulturally speaking, and, like me, he thought it was super tasty!!!

So he decreed there be a fair balance of Chard to Pinot Noire and Gamey planted in Burgundy so that he could drink red wine the first half of the day and then switch to white wine to clean his beard before returning home, thus fooling his wife into thinking he had not been drinking from noon to night. And in this way he kept the love of both his wine and his wife.

As I also briefly stated, Chardonnay is also a large player in Champagne. I will only speak of this briefly, as this article is not about bubbles. I only mention the Champagne connection to try and further break down the walls of the ABC club. If you enjoy a good Champagne Cuvee or even better a blanc de blanc…. You enjoy Chardonnay! There are only three grapes allowed in Champagne production: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, & Pinot Meunier.

When we venture outside of France, we can look at Chard the same way, Un-oaked v Oaked. If you are of an oaky persuasion I urge you to explore California, Australia, South America, or South Africa. If you want oak with a soft hand but you do not want to pay the price of Cru White Burgundy, I would recommend looking to Spain, Northern Italy, or Greece. And if you are hesitant to leave the ABC club, check out the pacific north west of the USA, Chili, & Australia marked “un-wooded”. I will say this: there are many more un-oaked Chards on the market right now, for two reasons. The first is a simple market response to the ABC club. The second is that new oak barrels are super expensive, and global economy really sucks right now, so stainless steel is half the cost or less to produce… how lucky that un-oaked chard is trendy right now.

I will close by saying Drink Chard, however you prefer, just do not shun it. It is one of the oldest and most noble grapes for many reasons. It accepts more wine making techniques than any other with grace and ease. It has a great amount of acid which makes it a perfect food pairer, as well as being a naturally full bodied white, allowing it to stand up to even the most overbearing dishes. And finally, it is super comforting and tasty! When I am having a really really bad day nothing lifts my spirits more than a big toasty buttery Chard (Cougar Juice) and mac-n-cheese. BEST PAIRING EVER!!!!!

Here are three of my current favorite Chards:

Cougar Juice:

Frank Family Chardonnay

Napa Valley 2010

http://www.frankfamilyvineyards.com/

Medium Bodied:

Domain D’en Ségur, Cuvée Madeleine

Côtes-du-Tarn 2009 (A SW French Delight!!!!)

www.birdrockimports.com

Fresh & Fruity:

West Cape Howe Un-Wooded Chardonnay

Western Australia 2011

http://www.wchowe.com.au/

Essays — No Comments
11
Jan 12

The War of Wine and Rosé

I realize that to most of the wine world this may seem a funny time of the year for me to write an article on rosé, but that is precisely why I am doing it. Rosé is perhaps my over all favorite style of wine, especially when it comes to food pairing. I will say that in my short tenure in the wine world I have seen its reputation improve tenfold, but I still feel its pretty little horn needs more tooting.

One of the most common misconceptions is that rosé is the sweet sticky slightly fizzy pink wine we have come to know as white zinfandel… and is that a rosé?… well technically yes, but it makes up only a very small percentage of the delicious sea of pink that is out there. For what it is worth I cannot even fully knock white Zin, although I do not drink it, it is a fabulous “gateway wine” , and as a wine professional I would rather someone drink wine… any wine, than no wine at all. It also incidentally makes a delicious dressing for mixed melon salad.

Now that we have gotten that out of the way, let’s discuss my love affair. Rosé is perhaps one of the most versatile and sometimes even the most revered wines on the planet. It always baffles me that when I observe people perusing the 1,000 wine list I work with, they will with out a doubt play twenty questions with any still rosé I point them to, even if I assure them it is dry and a really fun refreshing way to explore their favorite red grapes and regions in a whole new and refreshing, and substantially more cost-effective way. And yet few give a second thought before ordering it’s only “respected” incarnation… and the only version that is on all wine lists year round, that being its sparking form. The most respected would obviously be Champagne (my favorite is Runiart rosé), however Cremant, Cava, and even Prosseco rosés command much respect in this market. And although I do love love love all of these, and I am sure it is no mystery that sparkling wine goes with ANYTHING!!!!!! that is not the horn I feel the need to toot.

I am here to speak for all of the unsung still heroes out there. I believe in this so much that I am only serving rosé at my wedding in July. Granted July is the perfect time for rosé, especially if you are having a beach wedding in Florida. But rosé is much more than a summer time treat, it is a perfect year round. I live in Chicago, which means that it is cold 75% of the year (although this year is keeping us on our toes) and I find most people who live north of the Mason Dixon line, drink seasonally. This means crisp whites, rosés, and light reds in the summer, and big reds, full bodied whites and fortifieds in the winter… and I say who ever wrote these rules did not take many MANY conditions in to consideration. I will grant that as far as food pairing goes, the white and red rules kind of make sense due to seasonal cuisine (with MANY exceptions). But rosé goes great with everything! Personally, I am a very hot blooded mammal who after a day of walking around in at least two layers, and then cozying in anywhere that is not my house ( as I realize with that modern invention of AC you can make it 65-70 all year long) it is usually 80 degrees and dry thanks to blasting heaters and that makes me very very thirsty!!!! So these conditions mixed with big comforting winter food, i.e.: pot-roast, roasted veggies, and steaks, means that a full bodied rosé is the most logical match.

Some of the best regions, grapes, and flavor profiles for still rosé are as follows:

Spain– Tempranillo or Grenache– Full, round, and fruity, with a deep magenta hue, and a velvety finish

France (Rhone, Province, or Languedoc)– Grenache, Syrah, Morvedra, and Pinot Noir – Light to medium-bodied with racy minerality, and a healthy back bone of acidity. Best coloration would be pink to salmon.

Italy- Sangiovese, Montepulciano & Nebbiolo– Medium bodied with herbal notes, and a tart cherry zing, with an electric pink hue

Washington– Cabernet Franc– Big luscious and velvety, with a watermelon finish.

Some of my Favorite Winter Rosés about the Town

Eno Wine Room in the Intercontinental:

Dusted Valley Ramblin’ Rose, Stoney Vine Vineyard, Walla Walla (Cab Franc) $33

Bonus: If you stop in most days you can hang out with me. And if you take a bottle to go you can receive 30% off

Quartino:

Antica Osteria Dry Rose, Montepulciano, Marche $20

Bonus: You can get a glass for $5 and a bottle for $20, and it goes wonderfully with their veil veal skirt steak!

Wine Soaked A Blog About Wine And Life By Sommelier Sara Kay